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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.